Caniço is a coastal town on Madeira, not too far from the island capital Funchal. It is known for cliffs, amazing ocean views, Garajau Cable Car and beach, the Cristo Rei viewpoint, a botanical garden hotel, and, well, wind. While you may think that wind is something you would want to avoid, it is actually quite welcome on an island where air con is not as widespread as you would think. What many do not talk too much about, though, is the food. At first sight, it may not seem like there is a lot to choose from, but where you look, you shall find.
The Caniço area in this guide refers to various locations. Click the sections below to go instantly to the restaurants nearest you:
- Canico de Baixo is down by the cliffs, where most restaurants are tied to a hotel.
- Canico (downtown) is actually uptown, the more residential area where you find a lot of local gems.
- Hillside refers to, well, the hills where you should probably use a car/taxi/Bolt to get to.
Some gluten free tips:
- French fries are not always gluten free, so be careful. The same goes for ground beef, so check that a resto does not use grocery bought ground beef if you order hamburger patties.
- The traditional tomato and onion soup is not gluten free, and neither is (of course) the wheat soup called sopa de trigo. Also, bolo do caco may be a sweet potato bread but it contains flour. Stay far away from the local drink Nikita too, as beer is a main ingredient.
- Rice sidings often contain chicken stock, which may not be gluten free if it is not home made.
- Some restaurant staff confuse gluten with lactose, so make sure to also mention examples of ingredients you cannot have.
GLUTEN FREE IN CANIÇO
100 % Gluten Free
Unfortunately, there are no 100% gluten free restaurants nor bakeries in Caniço. I searched high and low, both online and in the city itself, but could not find a single such place. If you do come across one, do let me know!
PLACES WITH GLUTEN FREE ON THE MENU
These are places that have “GLUTEN FREE” marked specifically on their menus, either in a separate section or through allergen marking (always keep in mind that cross contamination could be a risk for Celiacs at any establishment that is not 100% Celiac friendly).
I went to over 25 restaurants in Caniço – which is close to all the eating places in the area (if you do not count snack bars). None of them had allergy marked menus.
PLACES WITH GLUTEN FREE OPTIONS WHEN ASKED
At these places, the menus did not have any information on allergens or ingredients, but staff was able to assist when asked about gluten free options (always keep in mind that cross contamination could be a risk for Celiacs at any establishment that is not 100% Celiac friendly).
ATLANTIS RESTAURANTE
R. Baden Powell, 9125-031 Caniço de Baixo
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
This restaurant has quite the view as it is located right by the water. While there is no allergen marked menu, the menu does ask anyone with an allergy to alert the staff. I ate at the restaurant several times, and the staff would always confirm which dishes were gluten free with the kitchen. Just make sure to ask them to check for you. You can read more about the restaurant here.
Note that the restaurant is part of the hotel Sentido Galomar. You can access it from the waterside instead of going through the whole hotel. If you’re up for a swim before your meal, there is also a public bathing area beneath the restaurant (fee is around EUR 7).
INN & ART MADEIRA
Rua Robert, R. Baden Powell 61/62, 9125-036 Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
This quickly became one of my favourite spots, both because of the cliff views and the great service. The restaurant is located inside the Inn & Art hotel, and there is inside and outside seating. The food is quite good and the staff is very helpful when it comes to allergy assistance. There is in particular one female staff member who goes above and beyond to make sure you get a safe meal, and who seems to know the allergens of the menu by heart. The menu is posted by the entrance, so you can see if there is anything you fancy before heading inside. I would say, it is worth a visit even just for a coffee to take in the views. You can read more about the restaurant here.
A TRAINERA
Rua Dom Franscisco Santana, Edificio Varandas Mar loja 1 e 2, 9125-031 Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
If you are craving some seafood, this is an excellent spot. It’s quite popular with the locals and you might even risk not getting a table if you go during lunch on a weekend. You can get everything from fresh fish to grilled squid, lapas, fish stew and more. What is good to know is that you get complimentary sweet potatoes, vegetables and rice with your order (this is often charged separately). If you let the waiter know that you have a dietary restriction, they will double-check your order with the kitchen. At the same time, this is a place where you should go for fresh or grilled seafood, which are also safe options. As a side note, rice in Madeira is often cooked in broth. The broth is not always gluten free, and I chose to avoid the rice just to be on the safe side.You can read more about the restaurant here.
RESTAURANTE LARANJINHA
Estrada José Avelino Pinto, Edf Ocean Garden Caniço Ilha Da Madeira, 9125-024
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
This restaurant is located in an area without not much else around (except a huge RUI hotel), but don’t let that fool you. It is a very modern restaurant that seems to specialize in meat. For my first visit, I had no trouble ordering a gluten free risotto. For my second visit, there was some confusion as the waiter mistook gluten for lactose. After a few rounds with the kitchen, it got sorted out and I received a gluten free duck dish.
The prices here can be a bit steep, but they have a daily “plate of the day” which consists of a dish, bread (for my first visit they went above and beyond to get me gluten free bread) and coffee. The price is around EUR 8, but the dishes change every day. You can contact them in advance if you want to see which days may have gluten free options. More restaurant details can be found here.
KLENK’S CAFE
Estrada da Ponta Oliveira 57a, 9125-035 Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
A hidden gem in a residential area. It serves a mix of Portuguese and German dishes. I went for the safe option of grilled salmon with asparagus risotto, which was very good. The menu is not allergen marked, but the waiter checked the dish with the kitchen. They have a huge indoor seating area as well as a cozy outdoor patio. Read more about the restaurant here.
FADOS
Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
Another residential restaurant. You will be walking up a couple of semi-steep hills and wonder if you took a wrong turn – but then you see it. Very local with traditional dishes. When asking about the gluten free options on the menu, I was recommended grilled seafood (as seen in the picture). There is nothing around the restaurant, but worth a visit if you’re staying nearby. You can read more here.
TALHO DO CANICO
R. Padre Agostinho de Freitas 18, 9125-019 Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
This is a hidden gem that is in fact not hidden at all. Located in the uptown area, you will not think much of this place as you walk by it – except you will notice it always has a long line. Turns out, this is because it is a very popular BBQ place (only open Thursday to Sunday).
You first stand in line to buy your meats (espetada), and wait for it to be prepared on a BBQ stick. You then bring your meat outside to the back of the butcher shop. There you will be guided to a table and asked if you wish to grill it yourself or if you need help. This is a very unique and local experience, and one order is only about 4 EUR (feeds two people). The beef is only marinated in oil and salt, so it’s very safe. Do note that they only serve beverages and bread with the meats. The meat is fine on its own, but you could bring some fries from another resto if you wish. Read more here.
SAKURA SUSHI
Edf. Jardins, Rua Dr.F. Peres Loja 17, 9125-014 Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
Sakura Sushi is located inside a small outside “mall”. You can ask the staff about options without sauces, soy and anything fried. If you order through the Fork website, there is a 30% discount. I ate here about three times, and had no issues with gluten (note that I was not sure what the white stuff in the picture was, and avoided eating those pieces). This restaurant also loves to put fruit in the sushi, if that is something you like. Read more here (where you can order delivery if you prefer).
PLEASE DON’T TELL (PDT)
Estrada da Ponta Oliveira 26, 9125-039 Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
Please Don’t Tell became a regular spot because it was so near my accommodation. The service is great and very accommodating. Gluten free options are primarily dishes with steak, so it can get a little pricey. A tip is to order the prego on a plate (so NO bread). For 8 EUR you then get a thin steak with egg, excellent French fries and salad. It tastes much better than it looks! PDT is also a good place to just grab a drink, and it can get busy in the evenings. Read more here.
QUINTA SPLENDIDA HOTEL
Estrada da Ponta Oliveira 11, 9125-001 Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
The Quinta Splendida hotel has several restaurants, but only two are currently open (and they share the same seating area and menu). The hotel itself is quite the sight, as it is located in a botanical garden. If you go there, don’t forget to take a stroll around.
The prices at the restaurant are steeper than at other places in the area, but it is the perfect place for a romantic evening. Vegetables and herbs are grown at the hotel premises, and you’re guaranteed a freshly prepared meal. Ask the staff about gluten free options, and they will check with the kitchen. If you want to order from the Thai menu, only one or two dishes are gluten free. Learn more about the hotel and restaurant here.
LA TERRACA
R. João Paulo II 19, 9125-019 Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
I believe this is a family run restaurant, and I always come back for the espetada (grilled meat). The staff do not speak English very well, so for anyone eating only gluten free I would recommend to go safe and get espetada with sidings. There is a daily plate of the day, which is a discounted meal with sidings included, and some days it is grilled chicken. Can absolutely recommend this! If you’re lucky, you even get a complimentary shot of local liquor before you leave. You can read more here.
RESTAURANTE CENTRAL
R. João Paulo II 2-18, 9125-035 Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
Visited Central restaurant once as it was closed most of my stay in Madeira. The interior is nice and staff are accommodating. The prices are a little high, but come with sidings. I played it safe and got the espetada. You can find reviews of the place here.
CASA DE PASTO DAS EIRAS
Vereda do Pico Pascoal 15, 9125-246 Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
This is an absolute must when in the area. It is located in the hills, but absolutely worth the Bolt drive up from downtown area (about 5-10 minutes’ drive). The menu is not extensive and contains only a few options: espetada (chicken or beef), black pig, steak, tuna and side dishes. This is, however, all you need. The portions are huge, the prices amazing and the meat sublime. I would recommend getting the 9 EUR steak, which always is as big as in the photo. The espetada is also great (the pig dish is a bit small as a fyi). As it is hillside and a popular spot, I would recommend to book a table in advance. Read more reviews here.
VISTA D ANTONIO
R. Eng. Abel Vieira 50, Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
If it wasn’t for Google Maps, I would not have known this place existed. It is tucked away in the hills of Canico – with a very rough walk up (not recommendable). Take a Bolt up and you will be able to enjoy grilled meats, including black pig. There were no other tourists around, so it is safe to say it’s quite local. The food was good. I only ate the grilled specialties, so cannot vouch for any other dishes on the menu. If you decide to go, make sure to eat inside as the outside is the snack bar area. You will find more reviews here.
RESTAURANTE O MOINHO
Estrada dos Moinhos nº50, 9125-103 Caniço
Celiac safety: Be aware of potential cross-contamination risk
This restaurant looks like it could be a spot where tour buses normally would stop for a meal. The salad side dish is really good, as well as the espetada. The octopus is what they seem to be most known for, so give that a try as well. Note that the starters given when you arrive are not free, nor are they gluten free, so let the staff know you don’t want it. Read more here.
GLUTEN FREE IN GROCERIES/STORES
There are several small convenience stores in the area, but unfortunately most of them will have little to no gluten free products (aside from perhaps pasta, chips and ice cream). Fear not, though, as Continente Modelo has a great selection. You will find most gluten free items by the entrance, but be aware that they sometimes mix biological products that are not gluten free with the gluten free ones. You can also find gluten free items among regular products, such as gluten free frozen pizza in the frozen section. There is additionally Pingo Doce Super Cancela and Continente Cancela. Caniço Shopping, where Continente Modelo is located, also has a health store with gluten free products.
Have you not yet gone grocery shopping in Portugal? Be aware that items such as sandwich meats, fries, bacon and ground beef very often contain gluten. Always look at the labels, even for items you think would be safe!
FINAL NOTES
These are just some of the many places to eat gluten free in Caniço . Just remember – always ask about ingredients in addition to underlining that you are “allergic to gluten”, as well as reconfirming when you receive your meal that it is in fact gluten free. Lastly, always trust your gut feeling. If you don’t feel it’s safe, don’t eat!
